There’s too many options!!! How do I know what I need?!?

Is this a 120V Household Outlet?

NO. This is a 12Volt 20Amp DC outlet just like the ones in the center console where you plug in your cell phone charger or tablet. To get 120V AC you need to use an Inverter that takes 12V DC and converts it to 120V AC. REMEMBER, all these 12V power outlets on your truck are limited to 20AMPS MAX thus meaning you can run UP TO an 200W inverter (without wiring directly to the battery).

Can this outlet power X?

Maybe? You gotta do some math before you go plugging in high power devices all willy nilly. The outlet is a 12Volt 20Amp DC outlet. Meaning, anything that draws MORE than X watts (Volts times Amps) will blow the fuse in the engine bay fuse panel (fuse #17 in this case). So, 12 Volts TIMES 20 Amps = 240 Watts max draw. So make sure your device is below that rating. Most 12V fridges/freezers, battery banks, chargers and other things MADE FOR automotive use will not exceed that limit. Air Compressors, Hot Plates, Winches, etc are likely to be FAR ABOVE that rating. Those normally require a direct battery connection. Read the manual for the device you want to use to check. For more clarification, please contact us!

MOLLE! It doesn’t fit right / I have to force it…

Don’t force the adapter plates! They are made to be able to fit a variety of material thickness. If the tabs are not able to fully sit at a 90 degree angle, loosen the screw a bit and push in to give more room for the tab. then tighten down as normal. You don’t need to make it TOO TIGHT as you might damage it. The neoprene gasket helps hold everything in place and create a rattle free fit. See the “Molle Install Methods” video on the Bed Power Installation support page (coming soon) or contact us for more info.

The Power Shuts Off! / How long is the outlet LIVE?

ALL Auxiliary power points on the truck (by default) stay on for ~1800 seconds OR until the battery hits <11.8 volts. This is part of the battery management system. To extend the time, you can use Forscan (a PC application that allows changes to certain module options on Ford vehicles). Otherwise, this is why I run and recommend a Solar Generator / Battery Bank between the AUX power outlet and any devices. This way you have power all the time, without potentially draining the truck battery.

Does this kit meet the OEM ford specs?

YES (with one note). All components meet or exceed the OEM ford specs (and electrical code in general) for capacity and materials.

• The wiring (except the SPLIT kit) is USA made, double insulated, 14AWG automotive trailer / brake line power cable.

  • The SPLIT kit harness is 14AWG+ (because it’s MM2 ISO and not AWG) on the MAIN leg and 16AWG+ on the split legs. The combined power of both legs and overall power load of the harness can handle 20A at 12V just like OEM. This wire is NOT USA made. Simply put, finding a USA manufacturer for a molded assembly like that, at a decent price, hasn’t been possible (MOQ and etc). If you know of one, please let me know. Otherwise, the quality of the wire is well within spec.

• Double layer glue lined heat shrink is used at all junctions, and stress points.

• The connectors are USA and Japanese made (OEM connectors are either made in MI or in Japan afaik).

• The 3D printed bed plate is made specifically to NEVER have metal on metal contact with the bed. This will prevent rust or other issues from paint/coatings being scratched off or exposed.

• All 3D printed parts are designed and printed IN HOUSE on a couple of Prusa 3D printers, using Prusa brand ASA plastic filament. ASA is TOUGH, and very UV resistant. Better than ABS and PET.

• All my neoprene gaskets are custom laser cut in Michigan (via a friend whom has a small laser cutting business).

• Both the OEM and in-bed connectors are rated AT or ABOVE the 12V 20A rating of the power circuit.

• The 2 PIN in bed connector (on the Advanced kit) is IP68 Rated (when the cover is on or the connector is locked in place). This is a LOCKING, Weather Tight connector! (thus, it’s more $$ than a regular 12V cigarette/marine socket.

What is this adapter thing and why can’t I just get a 12V socket?

Up until recently at least… When I built this kit, I built it for how “I” wanted to use it. I very much dislike the standard 12V socket. It’s not sealed, plugs can fall out / come loose over time, and they can’t always handle a decent load. So, I designed my kit to have a weather tight, locking connector, because in my use case, that’s what I wanted to have. I tend to have more “long term” devices connected, like a battery bank, that I then use to power other things.

Recently, I’ve found a way (E.G. had some time to work on it) to make a more budget friendly socket/harness design. So the introduction of the BASIC kit will make it easy for the casual plugger-inner to utilize the power outlet in the bed. So finally, you can now just plug in your charger, or other devices when you don’t need a more secure solution.

Who are you?

Just a guy from Ohio that makes stuff and tinkers with things. See the “Our Story” page for some quick info. Otherwise, here’s some tidbits:

• Worked in the automotive industry for a while, as well as the rest of my family. Actually worked for a wiring harness manufacturer too for a bit.

• Went to school for Electrical Engineering and IT. Though my day job is in IT and Media Production. There’s a lot of crossover there.

• Been a long time do it yourselfer and maker. Whether it’s modifications or tuning my own auto, CAD design and 3D printing, or whatever.

• Camping, off-roading, road trips, exploration. All the fun stuff! Check out the Instagram page for all that stuff.

• I’m also an avid photographer. All the images on this website are shot by me. A lot of them in Colorado because I visit often.

Will you make X?

IDK, maybe, maybe not? This “side job” is something that helps fund my travel, camping, truck mods, etc. I’m trying to keep it simple, and not do too many things. There’s a lot of time and money that goes into new ideas or designs. I don’t like to Half-Ass things, and I don’t want to put my name on something that I wouldn’t use.

Yeah, I’ve been tinkering around with a simple bed light solution, but it’s probably not going to actually be a product. Supply issues, costs of GOOD sealed LED units, wiring/routing complications, and more just make it not feasible for me as a product.

Who ACTUALLY makes your harness / kits?

I do. Every, single, one. I hand cut the wire, strip the wire, crimp or solder the connectors, heat shrink the wires, design and 3D print the adapters, and ship things. Just me, by myself, in my little basement workshop. Want to see inside the process? Check out the brand Instagram page, or facebook page. Occasionally I’ll livestream to twitch or wherever when I’m working. Don’t believe that I hand make all these? Then bugger off.

If you made it this far, congratulations!

Seriously, I don’t think anyone really reads FAQs anymore, before just blasting out an email or msg asking something that was already covered here. But you made it! Thanks!